Rivers of Ice | Expedition Patagonia

History

  • There have been 2 previous journeys, regarded as full crossing of the Southern Patagonian ice cap from North to South.

    The first of which was a Chilean team of 4, led by Pablo Besser, and included Rodrigo Fica, Mauricio Rojas and Jos Pedro Montt. In 1998/1999 they entered the ice cap from the Jorge Montt glacier and exited at the Balmaceda glacier 98 days later. They where the first team to cross Cerro Mayo, taking them 30 days, demonstrating that it is possible but very difficult. This expedition is recognized as the first to complete a full crossing of the ice cap. However, as they had previously placed a food cache, it becomes a supported expedition.

    In 2003 Borge Ousland and Thomas Ulrich also crossed the ice cap but this time without any pre-place food cache and are therefore deemed unsupported. Their journey across the ice cap took them 54 days with the aid of sail kites. Although they started once again at the Jorge Montt Glacier, they excited via the Tyndall Glacier, 50km before the Chileans exited the ice cap. Which is where Ousland and Ulrich believe the continually ice cap to break to a rock band hence their earlier exit.

  • In addition, over the years there have been many expeditions on and across the ice cap. We have compiled a list below of a few notable expeditions.

    1914 Dr. Federico Reichert penetrated the South Patagonian Icecap for the first time via the Perito Moreno Glacier, arriving at what was later called the "Reichert Step", sighting, according to his writings, the peaceful coast. It is doubtful that what they sighted was the Pacific as it is usually very difficult to see the sea from this region. 


    1952 Argentineans. An expedition endorsed by President Peron, organized by Dr. Bruno Guth and led by the head of the Argentinean Army, Emiliano Huerta. Expedition participants were Mario Bertone, Arrigo Bianchi, Folco Doro Atlan and Antonio Ruiz Beramendi. They attempted the first crossing of the ice cap, with the idea of determining the division of the drainage systems. Beginning the voyage on February 4 they arrive at the FitzRoy region, cross the Marconi Pass, sighting the Pacific Ocean, possibly Fiordo Exmouth, on February 16. Returned via the same route arriving February 23. The National Institute of the Continental Ice is formed as a result of their expedition. They used individual Nansen-type sleds and telemark skis. Although regarded by the Argentineans as a traverse of the ice cap, they did not reach the Pacific Ocean.

    1955 - 56 The famous English explorer, Harold William (Bill) Tilman, with the backing of the Royal Geographical Society of London, arrived at Punta Arenas in his sailing cutter - Mischief. A Chilean, Jorge Quinteros, joind the team and they penetrated the Patagonian fiords, disembarking December 17. Beginning their trek on January 1, the team headed towards the plateau arriving at the foot of Cerro Cervantes on January 13. They descended Perito Moreno Glacier arriving at Lago Argentino January 18. They returned via the same route, arriving at their boat on January 27, completing their journey of 60 km in 27 days. Tilman’s was the first ‘sport’ expedition and completed the first traverse of the ice cap. They didn't use skis or sleds.

    1960-61 Shipton, Ewer and the Chileans, Garcia and Marangunic carried out a north to south crossing from the Jorge Montt Glacier to Lago Argentino via the Upsala Glacier, a distance of 210 km. This is often regarded as the first great voyage of the Southern Patagonia Ice Cap, besides being the first to use sleds in the transport of equipment. They completed a crossing of approximately 60% of the ice cap in just 48 days. Their success was due to a modern approach in expeditioning. They used a single pyramid tent, of common use in Antarctica at that time, which was dismantled like an umbrella and placed on the sled, saving much time. They also took a sled of 18 kilos, that could be dismantled in four pieces, and one small sled that Jack Ewer used. Took specially prepared food, a recent innovation, of 4500 [kcal] / day. However they used snowshoes instead of skis.

    1971 Japanese expedition from the University of Jochi, Tokyo. Arrived Santiago but were delayed more than one and a half months before gaining support from the Chilean Navy. Three members, Toschio Takeuchi, Takeo Tsusuki and Takeo Yoshizawa, carry 800 kilos of supplies, having sleds but not skis. Arrived at Fiordo Falcon on December 3 and had previously placed a depot at Fiordo Europe. They crossed between the Falcon and Europe in the slowest recorded expedition - 50 km in 51 day, naming the Japan plateau and also climbing Cerro Akira and Cerro Iruka. They introduced the practice of placing intermediate depots.

    1982-83 A very large French expedition consisting of Dr. Jean Louis Hourcadett, Bertrand Doligez, Marc Roquefere and led by Roger Hemon. The expedition slowly ground down due to the misunderstanding of the peculiarities of the ice cap and its climate. They use the services of the Chilean Navy leaving depots at Fiordos Dickson, Falcon, Calvo, Europe, Falla, Exmouth and Bajo Pascua near the exit of the Jorge Montt, each consisiting of 300 kilos, with supplies for a month. In total they cater for 3 months, accumulating a load of more than 1500 kilos. They used mountaineering skis, dome tents and 1.8m fiberglass sleds, however they overlooked other important items like backpacks, gas fuel cannisters, skins for their skis, radio, down clothing, etc. Departed from Puerto Bellavista to the bottom of the Seno Ultima Esperanza, near Puerto Natales, where they disembark with 400 kilos of supplies. They slowly ascended the Balmaceda Glacier, but found difficulty with their great loads. Travelling against the wind they arrived at the Dickson Glacier after 36 days, where they descend to Cerro Ariel and locate their first depot. They spent much time climbing around mountains which possibly made them lose the spirit to continue. In 44 days they travel only 110 km, using big sleds and travelling against the sun and wind.

    1991 South Americans expedition consisting of Marcos Couch, Albert del Castillo and Gabriel Ruiz from Argentina, with Jos Carlos Tamayo from Spain and the Brazilian Alexander Portela. Initially they install two depots, one in the Fitz-Roy region, in the Paso del Viento, and the other in the Perito Moreno Glacier, where they also climb Cerro Cervantes. They depart April 4, quite late in the season, entering the Jorge Montt Glacier, with loads of 120 kilos for person, including a rubber boat. They arrive at Paso del Viento on May 5 in 31 days of good marching, but they were stopped by the onset of winter.

    1992 Paolo Cavagneto, Alberto Guelpa, Joel Blumenberg and Paolo Falco, cross in 35 days from Jorge Montt to Laguna Escondida and Lago Argentino, using skis and modern sleds. One of the "Big" expeditions to the region intent on carrying out an "unsupported" expedition. They depart November 4 with 400 kilos of equipment. In only 27 days they arrive south of Lago Argentino, possibly at the foot of the Falla (Mayo Gap), where they explore the region for nine days, looking for a pass to the south. On December 9 they descend the Glaciar Mayo, abandoning the expedition after discovering it seemed impossible to continue further south.

    1993 Two notables Swiss climbers, alpine guides, Frank Dellatorre, 36, and Giovanoli Arthur, 46. Very experienced with ascents of Denali and Manaslu. They propose a complete crossing of the SPI, north to south, including the North Patagonian Icecap. They crossed the water between the two icecaps using a yacht and arrived at Jorge Montt on November 4, accompanied always by the terrible climate, reaching the Upsala glacier on December 2. They continued until the edge of the Mayo Gap, where they became lost, drop a sled into a crevasse and lose batteries for the GPS. They return, after a total of 17 days lost, almost without food, losing also their tent. Finished down the Upsala. A total of 84 days.

    1993 Spaniards attempted a north to south longitudinal crossing, using sleds and skis, and the support of helicopters. They leave in February entering Fiordo Calen and after 10 days of portaging arrive on the plateau on February 28. With light sleds they advanced quickly, arriving at the Fitz-Roy region on April 14, continuing for almost 12 days to the Paso del Viento, where they rest and receive food that was delivered for them. They continue on March 27 arriving at the northern border of the Mayo Gap on April 4, where bad weather stops them. They wait for nine days until April 13 when transported by helicopter across the 12 km gap that was judged impossible to traverse. They landed on the other side of Cerro Bastion, continuing the following day and arriving April 21 in the region of the Amalia Glacier. Arriving at the end of their expedition on April 22, they descend the Pingo Glacier, from which they embark on two boats, navigating the Serrano River going out to the Fiordo Ultima Esperanza and returning to Puerto Natales. In total: 62 days, 350 km. It was a notable expedition, even with the use of helicopters to skip the Mayo Gap. Surprisingly this expedition claims the first total crossing, despite leaving via the Pingo glacier. The true end is the Balmaceda Glacier, 50 km to the south.

    October - November 2000. Eric Philips (expedition leader), Wade Fairley and Gary Kuehn completed a 25-day 210km ski/kite/kayak traverse of the South Patagonian icecap from the Jorge Montt Glacier in Chile to Lago Argentino, Argentina. Used kayaks as sleds then paddled lakes and rivers into Argentina. First Australian traverse of the icecap. The team kited at speeds of over 50km/hr.

Rivers of Ice | Expedition Patagonia